Tuesday, 3 December 2019

Sleeves

Sewing instructions for sleeve #26 MMVII


Some sleeves just have a bit more to it than just a plain straight forward sleeve.

Give it a try really interesting and very nicely designed sleeve.



Step 1:
Cut out sleeve, Add seam and hem allowances






Step 2:
Cut facings and interfacing for cuff section.
Iron-on interfacing
Mark all notches.





Step 3:
Mark seam allowances.
Mark dart and opening section.






Back of sleeve, with cuff plus iron-on interfacing -
placed right sides together on sleeve
Step 4:
Sew from side on hemline, 
up on placket, horizontal at bottom of dart
down on placket. to other side of hemline to side seam.
                                                                                                                                                     
Step 5:
Cut open placket section and into corners.





Press seams open.


          



                            Grade seams smaller and corners off at hemlime.
 
 Step 6:
Turn facing and poke corners out.
Press seams flat.

 Step 7:
Pin and sew dart





Press dart flat. I like pressing to both sides
where there is lot of fabric and facing

Step 8:
Sew side seams together
Press seams open
Overlock or finish off edges
I will do topstitching on right side of sleeve to keep facing in tack.
Do buttonholes for cufflinks
Ease sleeve cup and place in garment.

Tuesday, 15 October 2019

Sewing Instructions - Blouse #15 MMXV to Cut-on Cowl neckline (from Threads Magazine)

Front pattern




Staystitch shoulder seams and neckline seams


Sew Center Back seam of Cowl section.

Press seam open and flat







Clip section open at point "A".

Pin shoulder seams together
and pin neckline to back pattern neckline.





Sew neckline and shoulder seam together

Start from center back and
sew to end of shoulder seam

Do other side as well.






Set in sleeves

Hem cowl neckline and hem shirt

Voila!


 Enjoy wearing it!






 Closer picture of cowl-neck!


Transforming Blouse #15 MMXV to Cut-on Cowl neckline (from Threads Magazine)

I like the loose comfortable fit off #15 MMXV
This is my favourite semi-fitted go-to blouse pattern.


I have folded the Facing section away to the center front line (VM-marked on pattern)

This pattern is a semi-fitted pattern just enough ease to my liking.

So I only used the front and back sections.
Below is the changes done to the -
Front and Back pattern.


                                                                             

 I used #176 MMIV sleeve pattern

I used this sleeve, nice and loose fitting....

Not as flared as picture showed in purple but maybe if I do the same pose it will look as the picture.







I'm following the instructions as in threads magazine
Threadsmagazine.com/issue/2019/01/threads-201-Feb-Mar-2019

I'm definitely going to do this in a white cotton fabric or lightweight linen.

I used an old pleated cashmere skirt fabric -
Recycled the fabric just to test my pattern and alterations
The sleeve is a remnant of wool I used and love the result
Picture below at end







Trace bodice front.
Cut pattern along center front line (VM)



Don't add seams or hem allowances.
Adjust neckline and shoulder seamline.

Lower shoulder seamline by 1".
Widen Neckline by 1" at the new shoulder seam.






Create the center-front pleat extension.

Draw 2 lines, parallel to the original center front line,
2 inches and 4 inches beyond center front.
Label the 2" line "Pleat Foldline"
Label the 4" line "Place on Fold"
Extend the neckline and hemline to intersect the lines at right angles.


Begin the cut-on cowl draft.

Extend the "place on fold" line up by 10 and 1/4 inches
(or as desired).
From the top, square a line toward the bodice side.
Extend it beyond the shoulder seamline's outer end.








Establish the back-neck seamline

Draw a line perpendicular to the grainline,
from the shoulder seam neckline end out over the shoulder seam
This is the back neck cutting line.



Draw a parallel line, 5/8" above this -
for the back-neck seamline.
Curve the neck end down gently to meet the shoulder seam at the neckline end -
label this point "A"
On the garment back pattern,
measure the back-neck seamline length.
From point A, measure out along the line the back-neck seamline length - mark this point CB

Draw the cowl's center back seam

From the CB(center back) mark,
draw a line up to the collar's top edge line,
perpendicular to the grainline.

Add seam and hem allowances



Back Pattern Neckline

Mark 1 inch on shoulder seam, from neckline's side.
Reshape back neckline with curve.