Tuesday, 15 October 2019

Sewing Instructions - Blouse #15 MMXV to Cut-on Cowl neckline (from Threads Magazine)

Front pattern




Staystitch shoulder seams and neckline seams


Sew Center Back seam of Cowl section.

Press seam open and flat







Clip section open at point "A".

Pin shoulder seams together
and pin neckline to back pattern neckline.





Sew neckline and shoulder seam together

Start from center back and
sew to end of shoulder seam

Do other side as well.






Set in sleeves

Hem cowl neckline and hem shirt

Voila!


 Enjoy wearing it!






 Closer picture of cowl-neck!


Transforming Blouse #15 MMXV to Cut-on Cowl neckline (from Threads Magazine)

I like the loose comfortable fit off #15 MMXV
This is my favourite semi-fitted go-to blouse pattern.


I have folded the Facing section away to the center front line (VM-marked on pattern)

This pattern is a semi-fitted pattern just enough ease to my liking.

So I only used the front and back sections.
Below is the changes done to the -
Front and Back pattern.


                                                                             

 I used #176 MMIV sleeve pattern

I used this sleeve, nice and loose fitting....

Not as flared as picture showed in purple but maybe if I do the same pose it will look as the picture.







I'm following the instructions as in threads magazine
Threadsmagazine.com/issue/2019/01/threads-201-Feb-Mar-2019

I'm definitely going to do this in a white cotton fabric or lightweight linen.

I used an old pleated cashmere skirt fabric -
Recycled the fabric just to test my pattern and alterations
The sleeve is a remnant of wool I used and love the result
Picture below at end







Trace bodice front.
Cut pattern along center front line (VM)



Don't add seams or hem allowances.
Adjust neckline and shoulder seamline.

Lower shoulder seamline by 1".
Widen Neckline by 1" at the new shoulder seam.






Create the center-front pleat extension.

Draw 2 lines, parallel to the original center front line,
2 inches and 4 inches beyond center front.
Label the 2" line "Pleat Foldline"
Label the 4" line "Place on Fold"
Extend the neckline and hemline to intersect the lines at right angles.


Begin the cut-on cowl draft.

Extend the "place on fold" line up by 10 and 1/4 inches
(or as desired).
From the top, square a line toward the bodice side.
Extend it beyond the shoulder seamline's outer end.








Establish the back-neck seamline

Draw a line perpendicular to the grainline,
from the shoulder seam neckline end out over the shoulder seam
This is the back neck cutting line.



Draw a parallel line, 5/8" above this -
for the back-neck seamline.
Curve the neck end down gently to meet the shoulder seam at the neckline end -
label this point "A"
On the garment back pattern,
measure the back-neck seamline length.
From point A, measure out along the line the back-neck seamline length - mark this point CB

Draw the cowl's center back seam

From the CB(center back) mark,
draw a line up to the collar's top edge line,
perpendicular to the grainline.

Add seam and hem allowances



Back Pattern Neckline

Mark 1 inch on shoulder seam, from neckline's side.
Reshape back neckline with curve.

Monday, 6 August 2018

Help with fitting issues: T-Shirt

If you have fitting issues with Lutterloh patterns, join the Lutterloh Club for personal assistance!
Recently I had a lady that had some Fitting Issues. She joined me and we had a great journey together. She did one amazing job and trusted me. She gave me permission to share our journey.
So we started off with the Fuller Figure pattern in my T-Shirt class - #227

First fit is the paper fitting




When  I see the back doing this sway below the waist.....
It immediately tells me she's short waisted
The minute we do this alteration it will fit better





So now for our first test on cheap fabric.
           
 I'm not happy with the folds  and excess fabric still in the back so I suggested we try a different           T-Shirt pattern #60 FF MMVIII                     
So here we go with new pattern, thanks D


Looks much better, now remember the paper has no stretch so it looks if we need more fabric for the center back and front but the minute we're using stretch fabric it will be fine.

Fabric fit fantastic I love it!  And so do Mrs D



Thank you so much for giving me permission to use your pictures and this great journey we had together. Every now and then I'll do some more fitting issues and sometimes by just using a different pattern we get a much better result.



                                              

Monday, 21 May 2018

MCC (Minumilist Capsule Challenge ) - Combinations of clothes

This is how my MCC has developed so far a mix of old and new garments 

Bottons 2 :      Trousers - Grey check jeggings ; Black stretch  jeggings
                           Jeans - Black ; Blue

Tops:                 Shirts -       White shirt; Green shirt
                           T-shirts -    Recycled  t-shirt; Striped grey t-shirt; Red t-shirt 
                           Cardigan - Apricot cardigan 
                           Jackets -     Grey short jacket
                                                                                 
                                            
 New clothes: 
                            White shirt;                                              Recycled  T-shirt ;                         
                                                   
Grey check jeggings;                                                                          Black stretch  jeggings

 

                  
  Old clothes:
  Grey short jacket;                                                            Apricot cardigan 
            


      
       Striped grey T-shirt;                                                           Red T-shirt 
                                Black Jeans;                                            Green shirt
                                                                       
                           
                 

Black  Jeans Combo 


















Stretch Jeggings  Combo



















Stretch Check (grey/white) Jeggings